After having committed a couple of crimes, Peter Clemenza, one of the mafia members of the Corleone family, utters what may be the best phrase in cinema: "leave the gun, take the cannoli". I don't know how many Italian places can replicate even a little of what Clemenza felt, before he died rather than abandon that Sicilian sweet, what I do know is that in Zimo the pastas made in their kitchen come close enough.
Zimo, a recently opened restaurant on Saltillo Street, in the Condesa, does not need to say that they are pasta specialists to serve dishes worthy of the great banquets of the Italian mafia. Not only do they have the expertise that comes from knowing not the great restaurants in Italy, but those that are not easily found: a tavern in a ruined building, a bar inside a tunnel, what we least expect is revealed to us in the blink of an eye.
But unlike a hidden restaurant in Tuscany, one of the most striking things about Zimo, in one of the busiest neighborhoods of the CDMX, is the design: in light colors such as green or wood, the kitchen stands out, although not completely open, with large windows so that anyone can see how the dough is prepared. The menu is not extensive, just a careful selection of antipasti, pasta and main dishes, all ideal for sharing.
To start, an artichoke with quinoa and sherry and jocoque dressing gives a different touch to the classic starters: this one is fresh and acidic, light, easy to whet the appetite. Then, perhaps the best of the pastas: ravioli with mascarpone cheese and lemon, served with a butter sauce that, it is unbelievable, but knows how to give hugs. For the main course, the slow-cooked lamb with tagliolini al burro is like getting into a patrol car, feeling the danger and traveling through an unknown city in complete darkness. To return to our reality, neither good nor bad, a pistachio sponge cake with basil accents is simply amazing.
Besides the food -which by itself is enough to be an excellent place-, the wine selection is very good. No surprise there. Zimo breaks away from the solemnity of Italian restaurants by organizing vinyl nights: every weekend diners can eat delicious food and listen to unique music by guest DJs who mix and play with different genres.
Opened just three months ago, discovering Zimo by the chance of walking through different streets of the city even feels liberating, as if we were going back to the time when reaching those gastronomic treasures was only possible if someone told you they existed, almost like in the mafia. It is likely that from now on -and hopefully so-, this small restaurant will be filled with people ready to take a trip back and forth to Italy.
Tuesday and Wednesday | 1:00 pm - 11:30 pm
Thursday, Friday and Saturday | 1:00 pm - 1:00 am
Sunday | 1:00 pm - 8:30 pm