Since the region was called Mexico-Tenochtitlan, the 16 de Septiembre Avenue in the Historic Center of the city functioned as an important canal that kept the inhabitants of the ancient capital connected and supplied. We took a walk along this pedestrian artery to give you the historical context of the architectural jewels that make it up.
Before taking on the name and importance it possesses today, Avenida 16 de Septiembre already enjoyed an illustrious status. From the days of the Mexica and until 1788, the stretch was a hybrid between a rain ditch and a dirt road. On board chinampas, all kinds of goods were traded through its waters, which led to its first official name, Las Canoas, which did not change until the novo-Hispanic era.
Tlaperos (thanks to the tlapalerías that existed in the Plaza de la Constitución); Coliseo Viejo (for a theater that burned down in 1722) and Del Refugio (in honor of a niche of Nuestra Señora del Refugio de Pecadores); were the other names by which 16 de Septiembre Avenue in the Historic Center was once known -which received its current name until the Porfiriato .
Current view of the entrance to 16 de Septiembre Avenue from the Zócalo.
From the famous sports chain that occupies the French Post Office Building, to the Casa Boker department store; these are some of the must-see buildings you can see on your walk down the always iconic Avenida 16 de Septiembre in the Centro Histórico.
Old Merchants Portal
The first major building walking from the Zócalo to Bellas Artes is the Viejo Portal de Mercaderes. It is one of the first colonial constructions and extends from east to west along the Plaza de la Constitución. As its name indicates, the building has always been dedicated to commercial activity.
Current view of the current building.
The southern part, which is the one that reaches 16 de Septiembre Avenue, houses the distinctive Gran Hotel Ciudad de México, one of the great prides of the Historic Center. This building was used by the Centro Mercantil store towards the end of the 19th century; later it was remodeled and was the first to use the Chicago technique, which uses iron and concrete. For a long time it was a department store and still preserves its cage elevators and art noveau stained glass ceiling.
French Post Office Building
The French Post Office in 1920 (left) and today (right).
In 1929, the French architect Paul Dubois was in charge of building the department store El Correo Francés. At the height of the Frenchified city that Porfirio Díaz dreamed of, El Correo competed against other department stores such as El Puerto de Liverpool, El Palacio de Hierro, Las Fábricas de Francia, El Puerto de Veracruz or El Gran Cajón de Sol, to supply the growing demand for imported products in the city.
Detail of the façade of the French Post Office in 2021.
This building also used the Chicago technique and has some details in art noveau style that are still visible today just by walking by its side. However, what stands out is the curved cornice of its facade, made with Venetian mosaics and inspired by floral motifs. Currently housing a well-known sporting goods store, it is located at the intersection of Palma and 16 de Septiembre Avenue.
Boker House
Boker House in 1940s.
If there is a representative corner in the Historic Center, that is the Casa Boker Hardware Store. It opened its doors in 1900 and belongs to the German Boker family, whose fourth generation currently manages the business. It is located on the corner of 16 de Septiembre and Isabel la Católica, formerly Coliseo Viejo and Espíritu Santo.
Facade of Casa Boker at present.
The building was designed by the same architects as Macy's in New York. It was designed with the intention of exhibiting hardware, cutlery and haberdashery products, as well as agricultural, mining and household implements. Its façade is made of quarry stone, and materials were imported from the United States, Belgium, Germany and Italy for its construction.
Casa Boker at present.
It was inaugurated by Porfirio Diaz and cost 1.5 million pesos in gold. In 1975 it burned down and, after remodeling, a section was rented to an important department store.
Colegio de Niñas or Colegio de las Doncellas de Nuestra Señora de la Caridad (Girls' or Maidens' College of Our Lady of Charity)
The Colegio de niñas o de las doncellas de Nuestra Señora de la Caridad in 1960 left, and currently right.
Erected in 1548, just a couple of decades after the conquest of Tenochtitlán, the Colegio de Niñas de Nuestra Señora de la Caridad opened as the first training institution for women -future wives and mothers- in New Spain. It accepted Indians, mestizos and Spaniards alike, with the intention of inculcating them as soon as possible with the colonizing ideals.
In 1744 the building was remodeled with the appearance that prevails to this day; and it would not be until the end of the 19th century that the property would finally change its purpose. First it was the German Casino; then the exuberant Colon Theater; later the Imperial Cinema and finally the headquarters of the Bankers Club since 1994. It occupies an entire block, extending along Avenida 16 de Septiembre, Venustiano Carranza and Simón Bolívar.
Fractionated, sold and demolished, Avenida 16 de Septiembre has been through a lot, yet the thoroughfare continues to treasure its commercial roots and today is lined with all kinds of convenience stores, some of them housed in authentic architectural gems.
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