Let's imagine the scene: one ordinary morning, thanks to the omnipresent rush, one of the many office workers who frequent the Historic Center began his day without breakfast. Fortunately, his dedication has rewarded him with enough time to break his journey and grab a quick bite to eat. As if by a miracle, the smell of coffee with milk and freshly baked bread lures him to a modest but promising locale, open at that time of the morning and with an odd generosity. Our walker has just stumbled upon a Chinese café, one of those culinary blessings that are already a tradition in the city.
The history of Chinese cafés
No one knows exactly which was the first of these cafeterias to arrive in Mexico City. However, thanks to Salvador Novo in his Historia gastronómica de la Ciudad de México, we know that its founders arrived in the country in the mid-19th century to work in the railroad industry. In fact, it is likely that the first restaurants of this type appeared in the north of the country, where the national railroads began their history. In that case, it is almost certain that they were forced to close due to the racial persecution of the Chinese population in Torreón during 1911.
Once safe and with the mood a little calmer, the first Chinese cafés arrived in the then Federal District between 1930 and 1940. At first they were established near the train stations, as small cafeterias that served lunch mainly to workers in the railroad industry. In the beginning, says Novo, the menu was very similar to that of the trains' dining cars: bisquets, hot cakes, eggs with ham, not so strong coffee, steak and beans. It didn't take long for chop suey and chow fan to appear alongside these dishes and fit in perfectly with the rest of the menu.
The culinary offer of Chinese cafés
Little by little, and as they gained popularity, these restaurants began to open in different parts of the Center, expanding their offerings to include the delicious breads we all know today. The pieces of bread they sold were not only attractive to the palate, but also to the eye; the master bakers who made them combined Oriental and French techniques, an innovation for diners.
The presentation of the breads also played an important role, as it was the first thing one saw before entering the café. There were the breads as the centerpiece of a small diorama cunningly decorated with typical Chinese objects; porcelain dolls, fans or the classic figures of Budai -also known as smiling Buddha-, although the real magic was what was going on inside.
For their coffees, Chinese cooks invented a kind of thick and extremely bitter syrup that on its own can have a very unpleasant taste, but when combined with milk it becomes the secret ingredient for a restorative morning. To this day, the way they serve this latte is mesmerizing. A large empty glass arrives at the table in which the dark and bitter concentrate is poured to taste; after that the waiter pours the milk from a considerable height so that the jet generates a firm foam that crowns the drink.
An endearing presence
The photographs in this article are of La Pagoda café, which along with La Popular is one of the unmissable 24-hour classics in Centro, but it is not the only one in the city. In Tacubaya there are other equally endearing businesses, such as Kowlaan, with its vibrant colorful decorations and an economical and reliable menu that has been saving both office workers and students since 1991. In Santa María la Ribera we find Lucky, where they are masters of noodles with chapsui and wonton.
Chinese cafés are an endearing part of this city not only because of the delicacies that come out of their kitchens, but also because they have always been with us. More than a few people have memories of visiting one of these places with their parents or grandparents; ordering a café con leche and a biscuit with jam and staying there, chatting and savoring as if time were only an illusion. Maybe that's why we love them so much, because, almost without thinking about it, they become an extension of our own home in those hours when routine pursues us relentlessly.