Among the hustle and bustle of the first square of the Historic Center of the CDMX is the Salón España cantina, one of the oldest in the area, famous for its extensive tequila menu, besides being one of the few places where snacks are still offered in abundance in exchange for buying a few drinks.
The history of the emblematic cantina Salón España dates back to 1925. It was founded by Spanish refugees who came to Mexico fleeing the conflicts of the Civil War - hence the name that survives to this day. The colonial building that houses it dates back to 1752, and is part of the architectural heritage of the Historic Center.
In the times of the New Spain, the property belonged to the Convento de la Enseñanza Antigua, which rested between the old streets of Cordobanes (today Donceles); del Reloj (today República de Argentina) and Encarnación (today Luis González Obregón). In addition to its ecclesiastical function, the Convent acted as one of the first women's schools in the capital, enjoying enormous educational prestige. Its temple is dedicated to the Virgen del Pilar, and currently stands as one of the best preserved baroque churches in the entire city.
However, once the reforms that consolidated secular education came into effect, the convent was expropriated and became a prison, Palace of Justice, and today offices of the S.E.P. and headquarters of the Colegio Nacional. The portion that corresponded to the old women's institute is precisely the one occupied by the Salón España.
Certainly, to set foot in the Salón España canteen is to immerse oneself in a time capsule. Here, the noise of the jukebox is replaced by the clinking of glasses, the roll of the dice and the sliding of cards; a solemnity that can only be interrupted by the itinerant musicians (trios, duos or soloists), who for a coin will perform "Perfume de Gardenias" or "Noche No Te Vayas". With woody touches and pistachio green walls, the place keeps a deep cultural reminiscence of its founders. This is particularly tangible in the Salón Bardo de la Taurina, named after the Mexican chronicler and benefactor of the place. It was he who donated all the photographs that hang on the walls of this room, which offer an iconographic review of the explosive fiesta brava. An exuberant bull's head; a trio of banderillas guarded under glass; a photo of María Félix admiring a capote. Everything contributes to the conspiracy of the art of bullfighting, engraved in fire in the memories of the Salón España canteen.
Although its European roots are undeniable (there is even a latería section, which offers sardines, olives and abalones); for almost 50 years the Asencio family has been running the business, and it was they who introduced the pride of Arandas, Jalisco to the menu: tequila. And not only did they introduce it, but they made it the absolute star of the bar. They boast more than 190 labels in stock, which makes the Restaurant-Salon España an authentic cathedral of the agave elixir. Naturally, there is something for all tastes, with the Cuervo Tradicional being the most requested. We highly recommend the Orendain Blanco, accompanied by the typical sangrita.
As for the food, the menu adheres to the standards of an exquisite traditional cantina. There are the classic tortas (cochinita, sardina, milanesa, tuna and leg), cold meats, tacos dorados and quesadillas, as well as a daily changing botanero menu. You may be spoiled with pozole, birria, chamorro or chicharrón. The recommendation is to let yourself be surprised and, in the latter case, if you consume two drinks or three beers (per person), the food is on the house.
About to celebrate its 100th anniversary, the Salón España is a must stop not only for those looking to enjoy a good drink and a pleasant chat, but also to soak up a fraction of the rich history of the capital. Once frequented by students and professors of the Antiguo Barrio Universitario, and later by personalities such as Tongolele or Sergio Corona, the Salón España bar has a language of its own, expressed in photographs, memorabilia, glasses and dominoes.
[snippet id="84805″]