After the New Year's celebrations, Mexican families close the festivities by breaking the traditional Rosca de Reyes. Crystallized fruits are fundamental for its elaboration; however, there is a component that in recent years has been catalogued as illegal, since it constitutes a real environmental problem: the acitron.
The roscón was imported to Mexico in the 16th century thanks to the conquest and, naturally, adopted some local elements that today make it one of the most recognizable in the world.
What is acytron?
Acitron is a crystallized sweet obtained from cooking the pulp of the biznaga, a regional endemic cactus, easily identifiable by its balloon shape. Most of its specimens are found in the arid and semi-arid zones of northern Mexico, although they can also survive in some favorable territories in the center of the country. In the past, such cooking was done with the reduction of aguamiel pulquero, which gave it a herbal aroma of agave. Currently molasses, piloncillo and cane sugar are used.
In pre-Hispanic times, both the pulp and the flower of the cactus served as ingredients in preparations involving chili and corn; however, it was during colonial times that the Spanish introduced their confectionery techniques, which turned acitrón into the typical candy we know today.
Deeply rooted in the national gastronomic culture, acitron is used in the preparation of stuffed turkeys and tamales, but definitely the two dishes that consider it fundamental are chiles en nogada and Rosca de Reyes. However, these delicatessens have had to dispense with its use, since the source of its extraction is in danger of extinction.
Why is the sale of acytron prohibited?
Despite being considered an ancient ingredient - there is evidence of its use for ceremonial purposes in caves in Tehuacán, Puebla - both the overexploitation of the sweet biznaga, as well as the arduous conditions for its reproduction, resulted in a dangerous downward spiral towards extinction, which led to its protection by environmental authorities in Mexico.
Like several species of cactus, the biznaga takes years to reach its ideal maturity. And although there are some specimens that can reach more than one meter in height, the truth is that it takes them more than a hundred years to reach such proportions. In fact, it takes between 15 and 40 years of development to reach a height of only 40 centimeters. That is why its domestic cultivation is practically unfeasible.
In 2005, SAGARPA declared the barrel cactus as a wild species in a state of vulnerability and, in 2010, the SEMARNAT Official Standard was approved that identifies and protects it as a specimen on the verge of extinction. Today, there is a total number equal to or less than 500 specimens, with approximately one cactus every five hectares throughout the country.
Alternatives to Acitron
As with other ancient customs, it has not been easy to stop the illegal trade of acitron. It can still be found quite easily in markets and supply centers, without any consequence, despite the regulations. In spite of this, it is important to emphasize that it is not an irreplaceable ingredient, and much less is its disappearance justified in favor of a gastronomic whim.
The palate-pleasing goodness of the confite - soft on the inside and firm on the crust - can easily be offset with other ingredients. Jicama, green papaya, sweet potato and crystallized pumpkin work as a good substitute. Some places even sell caramelized chilacayote dyed yellow to pass it off as acitron, which further strengthens the theory.
As far as the Rosca de Reyes is concerned, master bakers have adapted to the situation and now it is jellies, ates, figs, cherries and crystallized oranges that serve as the crown's jewels. Those that, according to religious tradition, represent love, peace and happiness; the graces brought by Jesus Christ. Of course, now without sacrificing the rich Mexican biodiversity.