It is said that Mexico is one of the countries with the greatest variety of bread, and how can we deny it? Just look at the variety of conchas, cupcakes, moños, cañones, chilindrinas and corbatas displayed in bakeries that have been in the CDMX for years.
The history of bread in Mexico dates back to pre-Hispanic times with the elaboration of corn tortillas called cocolli, which means twisted bread. It was by the Spaniards that bread began to be made with wheat. The history of the bakeries began there: In 1525 Hernán Cortés requested that all bread production be taken to the central plaza for commercialization. All the bakeries that existed had to comply with the established norms for its production, both in terms of weight and price.
In addition to the established businesses, women were seen in the plazas with huge baskets selling bread. By the end of the 18th century, European bakers arrived in Mexico City and started family businesses. One of the best known was Manuel Mazza, Italian, who started his business in Oaxaca, and became famous after his daughter married Benito Juárez.
In 1869, eighteen men owned the thirty or so main bakeries in Mexico City. All but one were newcomers to the bread industry; at least eight were immigrants, only one of whom was Basque-Navarran. Spanish immigrants gradually bought out existing bakeries and established new ones. After remaining constant for more than a century, the number of bakeries tripled between 1869 and 1890.
With bakeries came self-service sales. In the beginning, the bakeries served through a counter. Upon arrival, people would ask for their bread and the employees would place it on the trays. Because of the public's insistence on getting fresh bread every morning, the bakeries had to be dispersed, a short distance from the houses. Thus, the constant arrival of immigrants encouraged the dispersion of a large number of productive units that were small, independent and non-mechanized.
In the 1950s this changed and it was Antonio Ordoñez Ríos who implemented self-service in his La Espiga bakeries. It is said that despite his advanced age, -almost 99 years old- he still goes to his bakeries. This is how the bakeries of the CDMX have played an important role in the industry of our country.
