Mixcoac is a neighborhood where the stories of the city intertwine with a quiet essence that seems to resist the frenetic pace of the CDMX. In this guide, we explore some of the corners that, I believe, make this neighborhood special, from its cultural heritage to its most representative flavors.
It is a place where Octavio Paz found inspiration in his childhood and where the tortas and stews of traditional places like El Capricho and Zacazonapan remind you of the pleasure of the simple.
Tortas El Capricho
This small but emblematic place, located at Augusto Rodin 407, specializes in tortas that combine tradition and generosity. Here there are no pretensions, only well-cared flavors that bring you back to the essence of Mexican loncherías.
The menu offers everything from stew cakes to juicy meat options, always with the perfect bread, fresh ingredients and those homemade sauces that elevate any meal to the next level. This is an ideal space for those who know that a good torta can be much more than "fast food": it is a daily ritual that embraces and comforts.
This place has that neighborhood energy you love so much: people coming and going, flavors that fill the air and an authentic vibe that makes you want to come back. The best part? They're even open on Sundays, for when the rawness can only be cured with one of these wonders.
Zacazonapan
This is one of those places that preserves the essence of traditional fondas: homemade food, honest seasoning and generous portions. Located in a place that seems to have stopped in time, this restaurant is the ideal place for those looking to reconnect with the taste of a good Mexican dish without pretensions.
Here, the star of the menu is the stews. Each dish is a tribute to home cooking, with flavors that transport you to Sunday meals with the family. Mole, chiles rellenos and casserole stews are always a sure bet. But beyond the food, Zacazonapan has that air of tradition that you rarely find in a city that moves so fast.
If you plan to go on a weekend, I recommend arriving early because it is always very crowded.
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Gomez Farias Square
Also known as the Plazuela de San Juan in the past, it is surrounded by historic architecture and tree-lined streets that invite you to take a stroll. Its tranquil atmosphere contrasts with the chaos of the city, making it a perfect refuge for those seeking a respite from the hectic pace of modern life.
I like this square because it makes you feel like you are in the center of a small town, with the big church, the village bread cart, the fairs that close the street on holidays and the beautiful architecture of the buildings that surround it: the Mora Institute, the convent and the former home of Irineo Paz.
A plaza so emblematic that it appears in Octavio Paz's memoirs, where he describes this space as a fundamental part of his childhood and youth, a connection that highlights the historical and cultural importance of the area.
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Antigua Casa de Irineo Paz
This space, besides being the family home where Octavio Paz grew up, is also a testimony of a time when Mixcoac was a quiet semi-rural neighborhood full of orchards and cobblestone streets.
Irineo Paz, Octavio's grandfather, was a journalist, editor, politician and writer who significantly marked the intellectual environment in which the author of El Laberinto de la Soledad grew up. In this house, Octavio Paz spent much of his childhood, surrounded by books, literary discussions and an atmosphere that shaped his curiosity and critical thinking. The house was strategically located in front of today's Parque Hundido, known at the time as the Mixcoac orchards, and its natural surroundings also influenced the poetic sensibility of the young Paz.
The house, although it has suffered the wear and tear of time and several transformations, is a reminder of the origins of one of the most important figures of Mexican culture. There has been talk of turning this place into a cultural space that celebrates both the memory of Irineo Paz and Octavio, an effort that seeks to preserve his legacy and open it to the public for reflection and learning.
Mixcoac, and specifically this house, appear in several of his writings as a symbol of his childhood and a starting point for his philosophical and literary explorations.
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Ernesto de la Torre Villar Library
Inaugurated with the purpose of providing an accessible place for study and research, the library houses an impressive collection that includes books, manuscripts and documents focused on history, literature, philosophy and social sciences. Many of these works reflect De la Torre Villar's own interest in topics such as Mexican Independence, the Mexican Revolution and the role of education in nation building. His collection is a treasure trove for scholars, students, and the historically curious.
Beyond being a space for consultation, the Ernesto de la Torre Villar Library is a place to reflect on the past and understand the present. From workshops and conferences to temporary exhibitions, the library seeks to promote cultural dialogue and enrich the intellectual life of its visitors.
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Librería el Vuelo de la Serpiente
El Vuelo de la Serpiente offers a different experience from conventional bookstores. Among its shelves you can find everything from original editions of great Mexican and international classics to signed books, volumes with exquisite bindings and texts that are impossible to find anywhere else. This is a place where every book has a story, and every purchase becomes an experience of discovery.
Los Chiquihuites de Cipriana
is a store that brings together the best of Oaxacan Creole products, offering a range that goes from black clay handicrafts and handmade textiles, to a selection of authentic foods that evoke the flavors and traditions of the region.
What makes Los Chiquihuites de Cipriana special is not only the quality of its products, but also its dedication to keeping its cultural roots alive. The textiles, with their embroidery and vibrant colors, are a testament to the craftsmanship of Oaxacan communities. The clay pieces, carefully molded, capture the essence of a tradition that has endured for generations.
Among its shelves you can find essential ingredients of Oaxacan cuisine, from moles and chocolates to aromatic herbs. But the real treasure is their weekly connection to Oaxaca: fresh tamales arrive each week, brought directly from the expert hands of Oaxacan cooks. These tamales, with flavors ranging from the classic black mole to more unusual options, are a must-try for those looking for an authentic taste of Oaxaca without leaving the city.
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Modesto, Contemporary Cuisine
This is the perfect restaurant in the neighborhood if you want rich, comforting food. It is known for its home cooking with Mexican roots, perfect if you are looking for classic chilaquiles, enchiladas, chalupitas, cochinita pibil and more. With its cozy atmosphere, outdoor tables and a service that makes you feel at home, Modesto Paniagua has earned a special place among those looking for an intimate and authentic dining experience in a neighborhood where there are not so many dining options.
